V8 goes East

V8 goes East - 12
This report from Gordon Hesketh-Jones records his travels through Hungary on the "V8 goes East" trip. Gordon notes "apologies for the gap in my reports - there was a dearth of Internet Cafes (and time) in Hungary and Slovakia, but I am now at Allan & Eva Doyle's house in Bavaria learning my way around a German keyboard after copious amounts of champagne. On this keyboard as you would expect there are the various umlauts (e.g., ö) but the letter "y" is at the bottom left and @ is at Alt Gr/Q. I will have to ask Allan why there are the mathematical symbols for ² and ³, also ß and µ:-". (29.5.05)

Entry into Hungary was quite painless
We showed our passports in their traditional navy-blue leather covers, smiled sweetly at a couple of border guards, and really that was that. Having had a rapid drive up to the border we stopped at the next service station, to find out that somehow we had misread the signs and taken a minor road out of the border point rather than the major road so some navigation was required. In circumstances like this I find that it is always better for conubial bliss if the driver takes the blame.....

In Romania we had become used to seeing great tracts of potentially useful farmland totally unused but here in Hungary we were obviously entering a mature country, for there was not a scrap of unused land - a legacy no doubt of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire disturbed only slightly by the Soviet occupation. Our route from Satu Mare took us in fact over the Eastern Plain - a great stretch of flat land running for some for some 200 miles virtually all the way to Budapest. What struck me was that the topography, the architecture and the sheer neatness of everything on this plain was so similar to Holland, the first major difference being that horses and peasant labour were still in evidence. A second major difference was for the use of bright blue tiles on the roofs of the houses, some in royal blue, others in cobalt blue. After the shock had worn off we decided that, in the right place, we quite liked it. Also, after our battering in Romania, the road surfaces were blissfully smooth and Jennifer was no longer on "crater watch"! The weather was quite cool so again some relaxation after the searing heat in Romania.

Our route was mainly along the M3 motorway to Budapest, and there were signs that this motorway will be extended eastward to cope with the anticipated entrance of Romania and Bulgaria into the EU. In fact I had seen many huge signs in Romania and Bulgaria showing new EU investment in infrastructure has already started, yet in both Hungary and Slovakia I read in A3 size English-language newsletters complaints that they had seen no benefit yet from their EU membership. Obviously they have yet to understand the politics and inertia of the vast EU bureaucracy. In Cornwall, when we were granted Objective 1 status, it took a full two years before any proper schemes started and now there are worries that the inertia means that many schemes just will not be completed within the time frame so money will not be forthcoming.

Rather like the way that the M4 enters London, the M3 flows right into Budapest but a driver error (again) meant that navigation by the excellent street map saw us arrive with some delay but not too much frustration through the hot and extremely heavy traffic (6.30pm) at the Radisson Beke Hotel in Terez Kürut (street) near the main shopping centre.

Radisson Beke Hotel in Budapest
Arriving near the hotel I saw a coach and a taxi loading up so waited patiently, blocking the traffic with hazard warning lights flashing, for a space. When I pulled into the space the porter asked me to go away and drive around for ten minutes as he had another coach arriving! A very few words were exchanged and he then fetched a trolley for our luggage whilst the coach went for an extra loop around the town centre.

One reason for choosing the Radisson Hotel was that they had an underground car park so the boys from below fetched the car from the front of the hotel. When I went down to fetch some oddment from the car they PLEADED with me to let them hand-wash and valet the V8 - they just wanted to get to know this strange visitor. The process must have taken several hours and when finished they parked the car diagonally across from the lift under some floodlights so that everyone could see it. I was quite embarrassed to only have to pay four pounds for all this loving care and attention. The food was fairly expensive in the Radisson restaurant but a lot less than in a comparable four star hotel in the centre of London; the hotel was full of American tourists on

package deals and on the first night the restaurant was crowded, but on the second night it was virtually empty, we being the last to eat. So what, I hear you ask? Well, this restaurant has a resident five-piece gypsy-style group of musicians who come and play around you whilst you eat, to my total embarrassment. The only way to get some peace was first ask for something be Stephan Grappelly and second to buy one of their confounded CDs. Away from the hotel however a light lunch in Budapest of two salads, two mineral waters and two desserts cost just eight pounds.

Rather than join one of the hotel tours we did a deal with a taxi driver at the hotel and he took us on a tour of the best places
This gave us 10 to 20 minutes at each place to look around with our guide books. When you look at the street map you can see that the centre of Budapest was laid out on a logical grid system like New York and there is an area of probably 15 to 20 acres just set out for museums, art galleries and magnificent huge statues commemorating various parts of Hungary's imperial past. Taken together there would be a similar number of imperial and historical statues in London, but it is the concentration into one site which makes an impact in Budapest. What was even more impressive - remembering that this was now a Saturday - was the large number of well-behaved children on school trips with their teachers to see this important part of their cultural history. This activity we also saw in several other countries but we don't seem to see it in the UK nowadays. With its long history and cultural roots it is no surprise to see that Hungary has quickly thrown off the memories of the Soviet control and is again a modern and mature country.

Hungarian wine
There are five or six distinct wine-growing areas grouped around Lake Banaton to the west of Budapest but our route on the Sunday morning took us back east onto the M3 where we were surprised to see a lane coned off and 80 to 100 workers brushing up sand of the motorway and obviously planning to cover many miles of motorway during the day - in the UK we would see a sweeper lorry and one or two guard trucks - further evidence that Hungary is still a low wage economy. The area around Eger is the largest wine-growing area in Hungary, but being a bit higher than the western areas they can suffer crop loss if there are late frosts. We had told the wine waiter at the Radisson that we were heading to Eger and asked him to find a good strong red wine from that area for us - then I was shocked to be served with a bottle of BULL'S BLOOD which I only ever remember as being student plonk. This was not a good omen! Matters did improve at Gyöngyös where we were able to find a famous restaurant (sorry, the name of the place has escaped me) for lunch then relax at the wine festival before heading off to Eger, the centre of the local wine industry and another spa town with healing waters. There are in fact many pools, streams, rivers and lakes at Eger which might explain the high concentration of mosquitoes - we had been free of these pests up to that point on the trip.

The Hotel Flora is part of the Hunguest Group - it has three stars and somehow with its heavy design and decor I could imagine it being full of the earnest leaders of the communist party, there to be treated in the various massage rooms and then soaked in the disgustingly smelly healing waters. If you can avoid being bitten, Eger has a vast number of interesting and ancient buildings of considerable appeal so is in fact well worth a visit. It also has an excellent computer shop were the young man was able to download 132 photos off my camera and burn them onto a CD, for which he charged me approximately three pounds thirty pence!

But enough of all this culture - and shopping. I want to see some mountains and drive up challenging roads, so tomorrow it is off to Slovakia.


Reports from Gordon Hesketh-Jones so far
V8 goes east 16
V8 goes east 15
V8 goes east 14
V8 goes east 13
V8 goes east 12
V8 goes East 11
V8 goes East 10
V8 goes East 9
V8 goes East 8
V8 goes East 7
V8 goes East 6
V8 goes East 5
V8 goes East 4
V8 goes East 3
Route card
Preparations for the trip


Reports from Bob Owen on the MG Italia
Additional photos from Bob Owen
Final report from Bob Owen
Second report from Bob Owen
Report from Bob Owen on the MG Italia