V8
goes East - 12 This
report from Gordon Hesketh-Jones records his travels through Hungary on the "V8
goes East" trip. Gordon
notes "apologies for the gap in my reports - there was a dearth of Internet
Cafes (and time) in Hungary and Slovakia, but I am now at Allan & Eva Doyle's
house in Bavaria learning my way around a German keyboard after copious amounts
of champagne. On this keyboard as you would expect there are the various umlauts
(e.g., ö) but the letter "y" is at the bottom left and @ is at
Alt Gr/Q. I will have to ask Allan why there are the mathematical symbols for
² and ³, also ß and µ:-".
(29.5.05)
Entry into Hungary was quite painless We showed our passports in their
traditional navy-blue leather covers, smiled sweetly at a couple of border guards,
and really that was that. Having had a rapid drive up to the border we stopped
at the next service station, to find out that somehow we had misread the signs
and taken a minor road out of the border point rather than the major road so some
navigation was required. In circumstances like this I find that it is always better
for conubial bliss if the driver takes the blame..... In Romania
we had become used to seeing great tracts of potentially useful farmland totally
unused but here in Hungary we were obviously entering a mature country, for there
was not a scrap of unused land - a legacy no doubt of the old Austro-Hungarian
Empire disturbed only slightly by the Soviet occupation. Our route from Satu Mare
took us in fact over the Eastern Plain - a great stretch of flat land running
for some for some 200 miles virtually all the way to Budapest. What struck me
was that the topography, the architecture and the sheer neatness of everything
on this plain was so similar to Holland, the first major difference being that
horses and peasant labour were still in evidence. A second major difference was
for the use of bright blue tiles on the roofs of the houses, some in royal blue,
others in cobalt blue. After the shock had worn off we decided that, in the right
place, we quite liked it. Also, after our battering in Romania, the road surfaces
were blissfully smooth and Jennifer was no longer on "crater watch"!
The weather was quite cool so again some relaxation after the searing heat in
Romania. Our route was mainly along the M3 motorway to Budapest,
and there were signs that this motorway will be extended eastward to cope with
the anticipated entrance of Romania and Bulgaria into the EU. In fact I had seen
many huge signs in Romania and Bulgaria showing new EU investment in infrastructure
has already started, yet in both Hungary and Slovakia I read in A3 size English-language
newsletters complaints that they had seen no benefit yet from their EU membership.
Obviously they have yet to understand the politics and inertia of the vast EU
bureaucracy. In Cornwall, when we were granted Objective 1 status, it took a full
two years before any proper schemes started and now there are worries that the
inertia means that many schemes just will not be completed within the time frame
so money will not be forthcoming. Rather like the way that the M4 enters
London, the M3 flows right into Budapest but a driver error (again) meant that
navigation by the excellent street map saw us arrive with some delay but not too
much frustration through the hot and extremely heavy traffic (6.30pm) at the Radisson
Beke Hotel in Terez Kürut (street) near the main shopping centre.
Radisson Beke Hotel in Budapest Arriving near the hotel I saw a coach
and a taxi loading up so waited patiently, blocking the traffic with hazard warning
lights flashing, for a space. When I pulled into the space the porter asked me
to go away and drive around for ten minutes as he had another coach arriving!
A very few words were exchanged and he then fetched a trolley for our luggage
whilst the coach went for an extra loop around the town centre. One
reason for choosing the Radisson Hotel was that they had an underground car park
so the boys from below fetched the car from the front of the hotel. When I went
down to fetch some oddment from the car they PLEADED with me to let them hand-wash
and valet the V8 - they just wanted to get to know this strange visitor. The process
must have taken several hours and when finished they parked the car diagonally
across from the lift under some floodlights so that everyone could see it. I was
quite embarrassed to only have to pay four pounds for all this loving care and
attention. The food was fairly expensive in the Radisson restaurant but a lot
less than in a comparable four star hotel in the centre of London; the hotel was
full of American tourists on |
package deals and on the first night the restaurant was crowded, but on the second
night it was virtually empty, we being the last to eat. So what, I hear you ask?
Well, this restaurant has a resident five-piece gypsy-style group of musicians
who come and play around you whilst you eat, to my total embarrassment. The only
way to get some peace was first ask for something be Stephan Grappelly and second
to buy one of their confounded CDs. Away from the hotel however a light lunch
in Budapest of two salads, two mineral waters and two desserts cost just eight
pounds. Rather than join one of the hotel tours we did a deal with
a taxi driver at the hotel and he took us on a tour of the best places
This gave us 10 to 20 minutes at each place to look around with our guide books.
When you look at the street map you can see that the centre of Budapest was laid
out on a logical grid system like New York and there is an area of probably 15
to 20 acres just set out for museums, art galleries and magnificent huge statues
commemorating various parts of Hungary's imperial past. Taken together there would
be a similar number of imperial and historical statues in London, but it is the
concentration into one site which makes an impact in Budapest. What was even more
impressive - remembering that this was now a Saturday - was the large number of
well-behaved children on school trips with their teachers to see this important
part of their cultural history. This activity we also saw in several other countries
but we don't seem to see it in the UK nowadays. With its long history and cultural
roots it is no surprise to see that Hungary has quickly thrown off the memories
of the Soviet control and is again a modern and mature country. Hungarian
wine There are five or six distinct wine-growing areas grouped around
Lake Banaton to the west of Budapest but our route on the Sunday morning took
us back east onto the M3 where we were surprised to see a lane coned off and 80
to 100 workers brushing up sand of the motorway and obviously planning to cover
many miles of motorway during the day - in the UK we would see a sweeper lorry
and one or two guard trucks - further evidence that Hungary is still a low wage
economy. The area around Eger is the largest wine-growing area in Hungary, but
being a bit higher than the western areas they can suffer crop loss if there are
late frosts. We had told the wine waiter at the Radisson that we were heading
to Eger and asked him to find a good strong red wine from that area for us - then
I was shocked to be served with a bottle of BULL'S BLOOD which I only ever remember
as being student plonk. This was not a good omen! Matters did improve at Gyöngyös
where we were able to find a famous restaurant (sorry, the name of the place has
escaped me) for lunch then relax at the wine festival before heading off to Eger,
the centre of the local wine industry and another spa town with healing waters.
There are in fact many pools, streams, rivers and lakes at Eger which might explain
the high concentration of mosquitoes - we had been free of these pests up to that
point on the trip. The Hotel Flora is part of the Hunguest Group
- it has three stars and somehow with its heavy design and decor I could imagine
it being full of the earnest leaders of the communist party, there to be treated
in the various massage rooms and then soaked in the disgustingly smelly healing
waters. If you can avoid being bitten, Eger has a vast number of interesting and
ancient buildings of considerable appeal so is in fact well worth a visit. It
also has an excellent computer shop were the young man was able to download 132
photos off my camera and burn them onto a CD, for which he charged me approximately
three pounds thirty pence! But enough of all this culture - and shopping.
I want to see some mountains and drive up challenging roads, so tomorrow it is
off to Slovakia. Reports
from Gordon Hesketh-Jones so far V8
goes east 16 V8
goes east 15 V8
goes east 14 V8
goes east 13 V8
goes east 12 V8
goes East 11 V8
goes East 10 V8
goes East 9 V8 goes East 8 V8
goes East 7 V8 goes East 6 V8
goes East 5 V8 goes East 4 V8
goes East 3 Route card Preparations
for the trip
Reports from Bob Owen on the MG Italia Additional
photos from Bob Owen Final report from Bob
Owen Second report from Bob Owen Report
from Bob Owen on the MG Italia |