North
Cape - V8 Experiences
Claus Esser
The speedometer of the V8 (Damask 1721)
was showing 88,722 miles when Theo and myself left the Rhineland on
6th May. Our aim was to reach the northernmost point of Europe: North
Cape. We reached the Danish border around 1am driving via Bremen,
Hamburg and Flensburg and, following the E45 northwards, took a break
after nearly 1000km just as day was breaking at the Hirtshals lighthouse.
MS Color Festival left harbour with us on board on the dot at 10 towards
Oslo. The 8 hour crossing was calm and we arrived well rested in the
Norwegian capital at 6pm.
On the beach at Hirtshals - Damask 1721 - owned by Theo
Klick
With
Norwegian ground under the wheels of our 31 year old V8, we left the
labyrinth of Oslo on the E6. The first impressions of Scandinavia
were collected at 60 mph on the way to a camping ground at Tangen.
The camp huts, which are usually very comfortable, make an excellent
alternative to the simple but expensive hotels beside the E6. Our
first day on Scandinavian soil was celebrated with one of the few
beer cans which we had brought with us. The V8 started perfectly the
following morning and we continued on past the Olympic town of Lillehammer.
Dombras greeted us with light hail and a series of hairpins took us
up to the 1700m plateau of Dovrefjell. The hail had meanwhile turned
to a full-scale snowstorm which continued to make for a slow drive
through a winter-wonderland past Oppdal. The snow eased off and we
arrived at Trondheim with clear skies in the late afternoon. An amazing
view of Trondheim fjord more than made up for the drive through snow
and fog. We crossed latitude 64 at Steinkjer and settled for a simple
motel on the banks of the Snasavatnet.
Early the following morning, we drove along the E6 past rocks, forest
and lakes, the road elegantly following the northern curves. The V8
was really in its element here and at 2500 rpm, felt very responsive.
As the car ate up the kilometers, we were reminded of the emptiness
of the Alaska Highway, but that is another story
.
We filled up again in Mo-I-Rana and approached the Polar circle around
late afternoon. The countryside vanished under white snowfields which
at this time of year still cover large areas of Norway. Then, in the
middle of nowhere, the Polar Circle Centre appeared. We crossed the
Polar circle at 66°33' in beautiful sunshine. Theo gave me the
ultimate "Arctic-Circle" needle for my club cap before continuing
on beside the ice-free Skjerstad fjords. A comfortable hut at Morsviksbotn
was our night stop. Of course, the sun doesn't set at this time of
year north of the Polar circle, so a series of never-ending days followed.
The fjords gave us 1001 impressions of snow and ice with seemingly
endless pine and birch forests. A new picture postcard view awaited
us around every corner. The road finished in Bognes at Tys fjord and
again with clear skies and windstill, we crossed to Skarberget. We
reached Narvik, a famous port where iron ore from the Swedish mines
at Kiruna is loaded. The E6 continues beyond Narvik up through snow
covered passes and the weather became changeable with a mixture of
sun, snow and rain. The empty roads and the V8 engine stretched the
old chassis design from Abingdon to the limit on the poor road surface.
We passed Tromso and stayed for the night at a simple campsite with
a lovely view over Kvaenang fjord at Nordeisa. Driving along Alta
fjord we reached the Finnmark (northernmost region of Norway) with
the V8 purring. Again we were offered fantastic scenery formed by
glaciers during the last ice age. In overdrive at nearly 80 mph we
crossed latitude 70 and the Sennalandet plateau. In order to visit
Hammerfest, the most northerly town of the world, we briefly left
the E6 and spent the night in Skaidi.
Theo gave me the honour of driving the V8 with glorious weather and
empty roads to our destination: the northernmost tip of continental
Europe. We reached Mageroy island through a 200m deep tunnel. We arrived
after 6 days and 3500km around lunchtime at the North Cape in bright
sunshine and |
Damask 1721
on the Polar Circle. (Photo: Theo Klick)
North Cape
Kommune. (Photo: Theo Klick)
"Alaska
Highway". (Photo: Theo Klick)
Theo Klick
and Claus Esser at the North Cape Globe. (Photo: Theo Klick)
parked
"Damask 1721" (perfectly prepared by Rainer Pfeiffer)
in front of the granite column of the modern North Cape Centre.
At this point (71°10'21''N), with a bitter North wind blowing,
we unfolded our OVFW-Club flag and slowly got ready for departure.
After a short visit to the idyllic fishing village of Honningsvag,
we dropped into the "American-Car-Club Nordkapp" then
left Mageroy island. However, a sudden judder from the V8 stopped
our journey in the middle of nowhere. A handful of reindeer watched
our repair work. The defect was fairly simple: the condenser had
given up the ghost but thanks to Theo's well sorted spares box the
car returned to its normal reliable self very quickly.
We spent the night in Skaidi before continuing to Karasjok (seed
centre of Finnmark) where we had the fuel gauge repaired then rejoined
the E6 at Alta. The route South from Storslett to Bjerkvik was on
known roads until we turned off in the direction of Lofoten (E10).
At 70-80mph we made good progress until the Norwegian weather started
to play games again. With light snow showers we arrived at the harbour
of Melbu on the Vesteraelen. A stormy crossing was followed by snow
and hail on the Lofoten. The E10 became quickly snow covered and
we drifted slowly into the camp ground at Sildpollnes, which turned
out to be a real gem. The weather was even worse the next day which
prevented further travel. It was not until Sunday night that the
clouds started to clear and let the May sun do its best to thaw
the snow of the previous days. We left the Lofoten from Svolvaer
harbour and reached Skutvik after a stormy 2 hour crossing. Along
the beautiful fjord landscape of the Hamaroy peninsula we finally
got back on the E6 and headed South. We recrossed the Polar circle
and reached Oslo in 2 days. The return journey took us through Sweden
and via Göteborg and Malmö, then over the long Oeresund
bridge to Denmark. We took the last night crossing from Rodby to
Puttgarden and spent the night on Fehmarn island. This was the last
day of our North Cape experience and we joined an overcrowded A1
heading for the Rhineland. Around 4pm we saw our home town of Wormersdorf
on the edge of the Eifel and so, after 13 days and more than 7700
km in the V8, our fantastic journey to the northern end of the continent
came to a close.
There are some good photos available on the Wormersdorf club's website
www.ovfw.de (under "Aktuelles")
which is well worth a visit.
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