| 323 Fitting a "lights on" alarm to a V8
 Alan Turner (Damask 0663) from Devon posted a note on the V8BB and 
            in passing mentioned a useful modification. Here he sets out how to 
            make the device. (Mar 05)
 
 Alan recently acquired his V8 and comments 
            "Isn't it strange, when returning to a classic for everyday transport, 
            that you miss those little "insignificant" things like central 
            locking, electric windows and headlamp warning alarm". Not 
            wishing to get stuck with flat batteries by leaving my lights on, 
            I decided to find an alarm for the side/head lamps. A search though 
            Maplin's catalogue revealed a kit available for £7.99 plus postage. 
            I found it was out of stock but put on a back order and eventually 
            it arrived.
 
 The kit is K3505 Car Headlamp Indicator order code VF24B and 
            is on page 495 of the latest Maplin Autumn/Winter 2004/2005 catalogue. 
            The kit comprises of a small printed circuit board of good quality 
            with two mounting holes for M3 studs, 10 diodes, 10 resistors, 7 capacitors, 
            2 integrated circuits with sockets, a transistor and a buzzer. Most 
            of the components come on a tape, which are in fitting sequence, there 
            is also a booklet with information of board layout, circuit diagram 
            and resistor colour codes.
 Building the 
              kit was the easy bit as far as I am concerned, but I am an electronics 
              test engineer. It took a couple of hours to complete.
  Alarm on 
              its board alongside a 10p coin to illustrate the small size 
              of this unit. (Photo: Alan Turner)
 
 The connections to the outside world are ground, ignition and 
              sidelights. I fitted a jumper across J2 to prevent a warning when 
              ignition is switched on without lamps on (required in some countries). 
              So the kit has two possible configurations. The kit was wired up 
              for test and worked first time.
 
 A small 
              plastic box was found and the board mounted inside to protect 
              it from damage. I marked and drilled
 | the holes for mounting 
            before fitting the components to the printed circuit board populating 
            the board, Two M3 countersunk screws with nuts fitted to space the 
            board off the box. Remember to drill a hole in the box line with the 
            buzzer or it will be very quiet.
 
 Now to find somewhere to fit the box, secure it and get the required 
            feeds to it. Well there is a square section tube running under the 
            dash which had already been used to mount the fan override switch 
            and the box would fit nicely with a couple of cable ties around this 
            tube section. A feed was taken from the ignition, a white cable near 
            a bullet connector under the steering column, the light switch was 
            carefully prised from fascia and the sidelight feed cable is red with 
            a green tracer. Piggy back connectors were used for both of these 
            feeds and a eyelet crimped to the ground cable and a suitable position 
            found. Job done.
 
 The alarm sounds when the ignition is switched off when the lamps 
            are still on for a few seconds and then repeats a couple of times 
            and is then silent, so sidelights could be left on if desired.
 A few notes worth 
              mentioning perhaps:o A multimeter (DVM) is useful to trace feeds, but a test lamp could 
              be used.
 o Static precautions should be taken when handling semiconductor 
              electronic components.o If using cable ties, do cut the surplus 
              off really flush or a very sharp edge can result, which can cause 
              cuts especially when working in a confined spaced. There is a special 
              tool available for this task
 
 Tools required are a soldering iron (25 watt), side cutters, long 
              nose/ round nose pliers, and a small flat blade screwdriver. You 
              will also need solder and connecting wire/connectors.
 
 Footnotes:
 Integrated circuit is an electrical component consisting 
              of many semi conductor devices encapsulated in one package, usually 
              having a minimum of eight legs.
 Static precautions usually take the form of a wrist strap 
              which is connected to an earth point (on a 13 amp mains plug) with 
              a 1 ohm resistor in the line. The concern with static is the person 
              handling the components can obtain a high level of charge which 
              could be discharged through touching an earthed unit. The earth 
              strap and resistor lets this discharge. We are all familiar with 
              the small shock when touching a door handle in dry weather, well 
              this is the static charge on you discharging to the handle and not 
              the handle being charged. So if you were to charged with static 
              you could discharge through a semi conductor device, integrated 
              circuit or transistor and the device could be damaged or its life 
              reduced. In practice you often get away with it.
 Small plastic box - you can get these from Maplin or Farnell.
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